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The John Atencio Jewelry Glossary The John Atencio Jewelry Glossary
Glossary › Asscher

Glossary: Asscher

An Asscher cut refers to a diamond shape characterized by a deep pavilion, small table and high crown. Also called a square emerald cut, Asscher cut diamonds look almost square when viewed from above, except for their cut corners which allow more light to enter the gemstone.

The stones usually have 50 or 58 facets and an ideal length-to-width ratio of 1 to 1.04. Due to their depth, high crown and many facets, Asscher cuts produce good brilliance and a beautiful hall-of-mirrors effect.

History of the Asscher Cut

Created in 1902 by the famous Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, the Asscher cut first came on the jewelry scene during the Art Deco period, when geometric shapes were quite popular. Inspired by the shapes of the emerald and square-cut, the Asscher brothers created a fresh diamond cut that blended the best features of both.

This exciting new cut became trendy during the 1920s and 1930s. Many noteworthy celebrities, including Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe, wore Asscher cut diamonds.

That said, Asscher diamonds decreased in popularity after the Great Depression and didn’t come back into fashion until about the early 2000s, nearly 100 years after the cut was created.

Around this time, modifications were made to the original Asscher design, giving the cut more brilliance. While the original Asscher contained just 58 facets, the Royal Asscher Diamond Company updated the gemstone shape in 2002, giving the cut 74 total facets.

This added even more vibrancy to the cut, making it one of the more sought after diamond shapes among people who prefer unique diamond jewelry. Today, the Asscher cut remains a popular choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry pieces. Besides engagement rings, Asscher cut diamonds are often used in tennis bracelets and stud earrings.

Asscher Cut Pros and Cons

If you're shopping for an engagement ring diamond, you should know that the Asscher cut does have some drawbacks. Because of its deep pavilion, the cut can lose some of its brilliance and sparkle. Additionally, the Asscher cut can accentuate a diamond's flaws, so it is important to choose a high-quality gemstone for any diamond with a large surface table.


  1. The Asscher cut is unique and eye-catching. If you’re looking for an engagement ring that will stand out from the rest, an Asscher cut diamond is a great option.
  2. This cut is very versatile and can be used in a variety of different ring designs.
  3. Asscher cut diamonds tend to be less expensive than other popular cuts, such as the round or princess cut.


  1. Because of their unique shape, Asscher cut diamonds can be more difficult to find than other cuts.
  2. The Asscher cut can sometimes accentuate flaws in the diamond, so it’s important to choose a stone with few inclusions.
  3. This cut can also make the diamond appear smaller than it actually is.

Considering Color

With an Asscher cut diamond, the step facets will make it easier to perceive color, especially if the gemstone is larger than 1.5 to 2.0 carats. While choosing is all about personal preferences, many knowledgeable diamond experts recommend at least an I color for Asscher diamonds. Anything more colorful will typically yield disappointing results especially for larger stones.

The Bottom Line

Despite its drawbacks, the Asscher cut is a beautiful and unique diamond cut that can make your engagement ring stand out. If you are looking for a brilliant and sparkly diamond, the Asscher cut is a great choice, especially if you have an affinity for geometric, Art Deco designs.

Because the Asscher cut is not as brilliant as some other diamond shapes, it works well with halo settings which can add some extra shine and sparkle to the center gemstone. You can also pair this cut with an eternity wedding band to create a stunning wedding ring set that really catches the eye.

Whatever the case, it helps to get input from the knowledgeable jewelry experts at John Atencio, who can educate you on the advantages and disadvantages associated with every available diamond cut.

Whether you want a ring with an Asscher cut diamond, a nontraditional setting, a fancy-shaped stone, or a modern creation that blends multiple styles, John can create a uniquely striking custom jewelry piece that’s perfectly suited for you.